Paints and Brushes
Paint and Brush. One of the many delights of watercolour is that initially you don’t need a great deal in the way of materials: a small paintbox of colours, a few brushes, some paper and a jar for water, and you can make a start. The materials and equipment listed here are the basics; as you become more experienced and develop your own style and way of working, you may want to try out special brushes or a particular kind of palette, therefore it is best to start simply and build up as you go along. (Paint and Brush)
Watercolours are produced in tubes, pans and half-pans; the only rather hard decision to make if you are starting from scratch is which to buy. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Tube colours enable you to make strong, bright colours and to mix up a lot of paint quickly (ideal for those who work on a large scale). However, they
are slightly tiresome for outdoor sketching as, unlike pans, they don’t fit neatly into a paintbox. Pans are perhaps the most popular choice. They control the paint neatly so that colours don’t run into one another, but it is more difficult to release the paint; indeed, you may have to scrub with your brush for some time to produce enough colour for a large wash. (Paint and Brush)
Whichever type you decide on, do make sure that you buy the best quality paints, known as “artist’s” colours. Most manufacturers produce inexpensive ranges, sometimes called “student’s” colours and sometimes given a name coined by the particular manufacturer. These usually contain a smaller proportion of pigment than the artist’s colours and are bulked out with fillers, sometimes making it impossible to achieve any depth of colour or to avoid itchiness, particularly over large areas. (Paint and Brush)
Paintboxes and palettes
The kind of paintbox or palette you choose will depend on whether you are using pans (or half-pans) or tubes. For pans, you need a paintbox specially made for holding them in place, either with divisions for each pan or one long slot in which they all sit side by side. If you opt for tubes you must buy a separate palette or several small ones – or
use an improvised palette such as an old plate. At one time you could buy metal paint boxes with small compartments into which the paint was squeezed; these have largely disappeared now, though you might still be lucky enough to find one.
The best brushes for watercolour work are undoubtedly sables, but they are not recommended as part of a “starter kit” because they are prohibitively expensive, at least in larger sizes. There are now many synthetic brushes, as well as sable and synthetic mixtures; brushes made from other soft hair such as ox and squirrel are also available. You may find you want to invest in one or two sables later on; if so, take heart from the fact that they are almost literally an investment.
Brushes are made in two basic shapes: round and flat. The former is essential, and you will probably require three
different sizes: a small one for detail and two larger ones the size will depend on the scale on which you work. Large flat brushes are useful for laying washes, but you won’t need more than one to start with. There are other types of brushes, such as mop brushes, which are also good for washes, but like sables, these are expensive and should be regarded as a luxury item. You may want to invest in them later on.
Most watercolour painters have a small natural sponge in their box of equipment, which can be used for “lifting out” paint and for mopping up paint that threatens to run. It is also a good alternative to brushes for laying washes. Of course, you also need a jar to hold water and paper.
This post contains the content of book Art School How to Paint Draw_ Drawing, Watercolor, Oil Acrylic, Pastel